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^DESCRIPTIVE # ILLUSTRATED 
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'ATKIN 



D 



LEH 



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AND ITS 




urroundinQS. 



A.J. MICHENER, 






PROPRIETOR. 



\lvN^ 



•i^ 



x***- 







WATKINS ni.HN AND 01. UN MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 



DESCRIPTRE GLIDE BCXIK 




-.TKINS G:_ZN 



ujiR viaAGE Of ^nm—mp of mmji ms, 



ROMANTIC SURROUNDINGS. 



f EIGHTH EI>mOK, CORKJECTED AJCD KJEVISED 



Bv A. J. MICHEXER- 



XEW yOKK: 



Entered According to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by 

A. J. MICHENER, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 







nri^'iEi D^'XJ X; '-TUDrj 




^<T^IRST in order, a short general descrip- 
tion of the Glen and its surroundings 
may be interesting to the reader. 

Watkins Glen, near the village of 
Watkins — named after its founder, 
' ^ Dr. Samuel Watkins, a native of England — 
was embraced through its entire length of more 
than three miles, in the '"Watkins and Flint pur- 
chase." This tract was obtained from the Indians, 
nearly a century ago, and covered a " large tract 
of country" around the head of Seneca Lake. 
The idea of unsealing this mysterious "Book of Nature" 
and opening its successive pages to the eyes of the " outer 
world " was conceived in 1863, by one M. Ells, a journal- 
ist and resident of Watkins, who deserves great credit for 
the measures he took to carrj'- out his plan, by the construc- 
tion of pathways and railings; building staircases, bridges, 
and a miniature chalet on the site of the present one (the 
Swiss Cottage), called the " Evergreen," and by announcing 
through the press of the surrounding country- that on and 
after the 4th day of July, 1863, Watkins Glen would be 
open as a Summer Resort for Visitors, and a claimant for 
a share of the favors annually bestowed upon Niagara, 
Saratoga, the White Mountains, the Catskills, the Thousand 
Islands, Mammoth Cave, &c., &c. The popular response 
far exceeded the most sanguine expectations. From 8,000 
to 10,000 persons visited the Glen during the balance of that 
season; and the number has continued to increase annually 
from that time to the present, from all sections of the 



6 

United States and Canadas, including many from the Old 
World. This extraordinary popularity of the Glen was due, 
not alone to the beauty, magnificence and grandeur of its 
scenery ; but to the generous courtesy of the newspaper and 
magazine press, which gave it a world-wide notoriety, in a 
brief time, that would have required many years to ac- 
complish; and acknowledgements are due for their services 
in bringing before the world one of the many charming and 
romantic scenic wonders for which our favored country is 
becoming justly celebrated throughout the civilized world. 

Watkins Glen has become so widely known, and the 
number of yearly visitors so great, the necessity of a des- 
criptive Guide Book has been greatly felt, and the many 
inquiries for such a work led to the preparation of this. 

The writer has endeavored to meet the wants of the 
visitor by giving a simple description of the scenery of this 
wonderful Glen without attempting to embellish as fully 
as its merits deserve — only making it a guide-book, point- 
ing out the various objects of interest in order that all may 
be seen, and the services of a "living guide" rendered un- 
necessary. The heights, distances, &c., have been given 
from the most reliable estimates; for, owing to the peculiar 
conformation of this locality, actual measurement is im- 
practicable. They may not in all cases be exact, but are 
generally correct. 

Many visitors are surprised and inconvenienced by not 
knowing the kinds of dress that should be worn through 
the Glen. It is frequently necessary to use the hand in 
climbing the stairways, and consequently a long dress is 
inconvenient to manage. In many places the paths are 
quite narrow, bordered by ferns and mosses that collect 
moisture, for which long skirts are unsuited. The less 
there is to encumber the free use of the feet and arms, the. 
better; long cloaks, shawls, parasols, &c., are inconvenient 
and superfluous, and should be left at the Manager's office 
by the Iron Suspension Bridge on the upward trip. 



y 

The dress should be of woolen material, for even in mid- 
summer the Glen is cool. Waterproof suits for both ladies 
and gentlemen can be had at the Manager's office, by the 
Iron Suspension Bridge. It matters less about suitable 
dress for gentlemen. Any hat will do, but one that 
will not be injured by an occasional drop of water is the 
best. Silk hats are the only articles liable to suffer much 
from the trip. 

In passing through the Glen, it is not well to wander 
from the regular path, as a desire to explore new localities, 
or obtain a view from some difficult point, might be attend- 
ed with danger. And here, a word of caution. Visitors 
will observe placards at several places, warning them not 
to throw stones into the Glen. Many do this to hear the 
noise made by the stones, crashing down through the trees 
and over the rocks. The reasons why it should not be al- 
lowed are obvious. We would also like to say a word with 
regard to those who are ambitious to immortalize them- 
selves by carving their names and dates of their visitation 
upon the face of the rocks, staircases, bridges, trees, &c., 
that it is "expressly forbidden." 

Pic-nic parties are respectfully requested not to strew 
paper, egg-shells, and the remains of their repasts, in con- 
spicuous places along the pathways in the Glen, or where 
they will mar the beauties of the scenery. 

The best time for visiting the Glen is between the first of 
June and the first of November. 

We would advise visitors going through the Glen to take 
advantage of all the seats and every convenient place for rest. 
The scenery fills them with wonder, and causes so much eager- 
ness to press on to the end, the air is so invigorating, and 
the jaunt affords so much pleasure, that they are apt to en- 
tirely forget bodily fatigue, and experience upon coming 
out into the world again a kind of reaction that convinces 
them they are very much exhausted. 



w/MTmimm m%mm. 



TO SENECA LAKE. 




PERCIVAL. 



N thy fair bosom, silver lake, 

The wild swan spreads his snowy sail. 
And round his breast the ripples break 
As down he bears before the gale. 



On thy fair bosom, waveless stream. 
The dipping paddle echoes far. 

And flashes in the moonlight gleam, 
And bright reflects the polar star. 

The waves along thy pebbly shore, 
As blows the north wind, heave their foam. 

And curl around the dashing oar. 
As late the boatman hies him home. 



How sweet, at set of sun, to view 
Thy golden mirror spreading wide, 

And see the mist of mantling blue 

Float round the distant mountain's side. 



At midnight hour as shines the moon, 
A sheet of silver spreads below, 

And swift she cuts, at highest noon. 

Light clouds, like wreaths of purest snow. 

On thy fair bosom, silver lake. 
Oh! I could ever sweep the oar. 

When early birds at morning wake. 
And evening tells us toil is o'er. 



9 



wMTmimm mi^Mm, 




THE OLD MILL IN ENTRANCE OF GLEN IN i86o-^See page 12). 




e.-^^.-'jIt- 



--^ji'N-^ 








EW years ago but 
little was known of 
this picturesque 
and interesting 
fc resort beyond 
the confines of 
the county in 
' which it is loca- 
ted. To-day it 
is renowned the 
"'.. world over for 
its wonderful 
scenery; and, 
differing in all 
its characteris- 
tics from any 
other remarkable 
locality of natu- 
-^-^*="-" '--j^_^^^iSl _ -r^ar --^ ^ -" ral interest, it 
~- "'^'^^" ~~ ~ has as distinct 

an individuality as the Falls of Niagara or the Mammoth 
Cave. 

The Glen lies west of and partly within the village of 
Watkins, in Schuyler County, N. Y., near the head of 
Seneca Lake, between two ranges of hills which seem to 
have been torn asunder in the formation of this narrow 
valley, twenty miles from Elmira and forty from Geneva. 
It consists properly of a number of Glens, or sections, 
rising one above another, and extending about three miles, 
forming a series of rocky arcades, galleries and grottoes, 



subterranean at times, and again widening out into vast 
amphitheatres, the grandeur and magnificence of which 
cannot be fully realized by description. The general 
course of the Glen is east and west, and the total ascent 



-% 



SENECA LAKE. 



about eight hundred feet. 
It forms the channel for 
a limpid stream, which 
follows its eccentric course, 
making the descent from 
section to section by a 
myriad of cascades and 
rapids, the beauty and vari- 
ety of which is unequaled. 
Watkins is on the Northern Central R. R., which con- 
nects at Canandaigua with the New York Central R. R. 
at Elmira, with the New York, Lake Erie & Western (old 
Erie) and Lehigh Valley railroads, and at Harrisburg 
with the Pennsylvania Railroad, while the Syracuse, 




Geneva & Corning R. R. crosses the Glen near its most 
westerly terminus. 

It is also reached by a line of steamers, running from 
Geneva to Watkins, over Seneca La^e, touching at all 
points. This is a delightful way of reaching the Glen 
from the north, as the scenery of this beautiful lake is 
equal to anything on the continent. The steamboats of 
this line are large, elegantly fitted up, commanded by 
polite and efficient officers, and every attention is paid to 
the convenience and comfort of the passengers. It will be 
seen therefore, that Watkins Glen is accessible from all 
directions. 

The following detailed description of a tour of the Glen is 
herewith presented in such a manner that the visitor may find 
it a material guide in pointing out many things which 
might escape notice. 

Passing up Franklin Street from the railroad station or 
steamboat landing, a few minutes' walk brings us to the 
entrance. On either side abrupt hills loom up like monster 
sentinels, and from between them a limpid little stream, 
buffeted by rocks and broken into a hundred cascades, runs 
out, and winds quietly across the level valley to the lake, 
as though, tired from its angry and tortuous passage 
through the Glen, it was now resting, idly reflecting the 
sunbeams before taking its final submergence in the cool 
depths of the lake. 

Turning from the street, we enter the defile between the 
guarding hills, and the first object that attracts our atten- 
tion as we commence our pilgrimage is a vast, rocky 

ENTRANCE AMPHITHEATRE, 

the walls of which rise on either side nearly two hundred 
feet above our heads. Ahead of us the walls almost meet,, 
and farther passage seems barred, with the exception of a 
narrow rift in the rocks as if they had, by some mighty 
power, been torn asunder. Here stood an old building 



13 

that served^for both saw and grist mill, before the romantic 
genius of an "Ells" had developed the many attrac- 
tions hidden beyond. 

Before proceeding, however, we pass beneath and around 




ENTRANCE STAIRCASE. 



the base of the overhanging rocks, where we obtain a fine 
view of one of the wildest scenes of the Glen — the 



14 

ENTRANCE CASCADE, 

which is a narrow thread of water, shooting out from an 
angle in the rocks eighty feet above, and dashing into a 
dark, cavernous pool of unknown depth below. At our 
feet slumbers the Trout Pool, broad, deep, clear and irreg- 
ular in form, so named from the immense number of the 
finny tribe which come up from the lake during high water 
in the spring and early summer. 

We now ascend a strong and secure staircase and find 
ourselves in what is called 

GLEN ALPHA. 

As we continue, we observe the channel makes a sharp 
turn to the left, which accounts for the apparent obstruc- 
tion. At ,the head of the staircase is a little bridge span- 
ning the chasm, known as 

SENTRY BRIDGE, 

where we pause a few moments to rest, and take a look 
through the amphitheatre we have just left, and down 
through the jagged edges of rock to the deep blue basin, 
broken into circling ripples by the falling column of water, 
out across the smiling valley to the green hills beyond. 

Here, for the first time, the delightful sensation produced 
by the invigorating and inspiring atmosphere, as it draws 
down through the Glen, steals over. us. The air is cool, 
fresh and bracing; laden with sweet odors, the fragrance 
of many flowers. 

Looking upward from the point where we now stand, 
what a sight bursts upon us ! Towering and irregular 
cliffs of dark rock, angular and sullen, rise one above 
another till they appear to meet in the clouds, and seem to 
forbid approach ! 

At numerous places in the Glen we pause, and wonder 
how it is possible to go much farther, the way appears im- 



15 



'W^^KIlfS m%MM^ 



passable, and the distance so inaccessible ; but as we 

advance the path always opens, and gives far more interest 

to the ascent 

than though w€ 

could clearl} 

mark our wa) 

before us. 

Crossing Sen 
try Bridge, w( 
ascend a shon 
flight of step; 
on the south side 
and before u; 
lies a pathwa} 
cut in the solid 
rock, leading 
along under th( 




MINNEHAHA. 



overhanging cliffs, a few feet above the stream. We are 
now fairly in 



i6 



l^^^MMMm m%MM, 



^STILLWATER GORGE, 

where the various 
hues and tints of 
the rock, the eccen- 
tric combination of 
curves and angles, 
seem as if nature 
had endeavored to 
see what wildly gro- 
tesque and yet beau- 
tiful images she 
could produce. 

We now catch a 
glimpse of the 
second cascade, 
called 

MINNEHAHA, 

which is beautiful, 
irregular, and yet 
full of grace. The 
water, broken sev- 
eral times in its fall, 
is dashed into foam 
and spray which 
forms a brilliant 
contrast to the dark, rocky sur- 
roundings. 

About one hundred feet 
beyond Minnehaha is the 

FAIRY CASCADE, 

which, with one graceful bound, leaps 
into 

NEPTUNE'S POOL. 

Following the path we come to a 




CAVERN CASCADE. 



17 

rustic seat, from which a charming view is obtained in 
both directions. Looking up from this point, the view 
is called 

CAVERN GORGE, 

and for wildness and grandeur is unsurpassed by any in 
the Glen. 

And here it would be well to advise visitors not to press 
on too eagerly, but to proceed deliberately, and frequently 
look back, as in many cases the views we have passed are 
the finest. 

Looking forward at the narrow gorge we are about 
entering, we see a staircase above us and beyond that still 
another, almost perpendicular in its position, and of great 
height. This portion of the Glen is called 

THE LABYRINTH, 

and the channel of the stream here is very narrow. 

A little farther under the shelving cliffs of rock, and we 
arfe at the foot of the Long Staircase referred to, which 
leads to the top of the north cliff. Here we are in a 
strangely wild and interesting place. If we pass by a little 
way, before ascending the Staircase, we find ourselves in a 
cavern, almost circular in form, dark and damp, called the 
Grotto, directly behind the sheet of water. No one should 
fail to visit this weird chamber. Here the 

CAVERN CASCADE 

leaps from the rocks above, down sixty feet, in a single 
column, not altogether unlike the Entrance Cascade, but 
much grander. The rocky walls of the Grotto reverberate 
the echoes of the falling water until the sound is fairly 
deafening, and the light of the " outer world " gleaming 
through the transparent stream in front of you, gives it the 
appearance of molten silver. Returning to the staircase, 
the downward view from the foot of which is called Whirl- 




THE GROTTO. 



19 

wind Gorge, we ascend nearly one hundred feet, and are 
glad to avail ourselves of the rustic seat at the top. The 
view had from the head of the staircase, is called 

THE VISTA, 

and the effect is very fine. After emerging from the dark 
chasm, we see before us silvery cascades, quiet pools and 
moss-garnished walls, overarched by stately forest trees 
and thick shrubbery, with a broad light flooding the dis- 
tance; and far above through the emerald foliage, like a 
web of gossamer, is seen the beautiful Iron Bridge span- 
ning the Glen. 

We are forcibly impressed with the beauty of the foliage, 
which appears all the brighter as we emerge from the dark 
recesses of the Glen. It is a singular fact, that nowhere 
upon the American Continent can such a range of vegeta- 
tion be found within such narrow limits. On the northern 
slopes in sheltered nooks protected from the winds, and in a 
great measure from frost and snow, exposed to the warm 
rays of the sun, the vegetation is almost tropical. Especial- 
ly among the lower orders, plants are here found that are 
indigenous to Tennessee and the Carolinas. The fern 
family is largely represented, and some of the most beau- 
tiful specimens are found. Many of the varieties attain a 
degree of luxuriance that astonishes the student familiar 
with them. Exposed to the keen north winds, high up on 
the southern cliffs, plants are found that belong far to the 
north. Stunted firs, mosses and lichens, that are rarely 
seen south of the Hudson's Bay country, are here repre- 
sented. After a refreshing rest we again start upon our 
journey, and bearing gently to the left, by a "new" 
pathway, strong and elegant stairway broken by platforms, 
recently erected, along the verge of the gorge, where 
the wildness of the scenery is truly impressive, we find 
ourselves standing gazing into what was formerly known as 




SWISS CHALET. 



21 

"glen obscura," 

but which, by the great improvements above referred to, 
is as accessible as any portion of the Glen. By a short 
flight of steps from this platform we come upon the 
veranda of the building known as the 

"SWISS COTTAGE," 

erected upon the site originally occupied by the "Ever- 
green " before mentioned, and now forming a portion of 
the Glen Mountain House, perched on a sort of natural 
shelf, loo feet above the level of the stream, and 200 feet 
above the level of Glen Alpha, overlooking The Vista, and 
nestling among the trees and shrubbery. When we reflect 
upon the labor attendant upon getting the timbers and 
lumber used in the construction of buildings, stair- 
cases and bridges to their present position — it being 
impossible to use horses for the purpose — and reflect 
that thousands of feet of the pathways, and many of the 
stairs are cut in the solid rock, and that hundreds of ob- 
structions and threatening masses of stone had to be re- 
moved, we see that patience and indefatigable perseverance 
have surmounted all difficulties. 

From the veranda of the Swiss Cottage is had a fine 
view of the main building known as the Glen Mountain 
House, the only hotel connected with the Glen. It is very 
romantically located, and capable of accommodating three 
hundred guests. It is well furnished and provided with all 
the modern comforts and conveniences found in any first- 
class hotel. All visitors to the Glen are welcome to inspect 
its spacious apartments, rest upon its delightfully cool 
piazzas, or indulge in any of the amusements provided on 
the grounds or in the "Amusement Hall." 

From the promenades on the verandas of the Swiss 
Cottage and the bridge across the Glen, we have several 
fine views of the gorge, the winding stream and the 
cascades above and below. 



yiTM^Kims GL,mM' 



A few rods above the Mountain House is situated 



HOPE S ART GALLERY, 

which was built by Captain J. Hope, late of 82 Fifth 
Avenue, New York, and contains a superb collection of 
more than one hundred of his finest and most celebrated 

paintings. Here 
'1^%==-:^^,^ can be seen some 

of the leading 
beauties in Wat- 
kins Glen and 
its surroundings ; 
also views in New 
England, Vir- 
ginia, California, 
Europe, etc., etc., 
chief among 
which are his cele- 
brated pictures of 

RAINBOW FALLS 

in Watkins Glen, 
and his great his- 
torical painting 
of the 

ARMY OF THE 
POTOMAC. 

Visitors can 

spend many a 

pleasant hour 

here, and no one 

should fail to see this splendid collection. Our way 

now lies through the woods by a shaded path, and is 

called 




fjfj^^'<?=i^^>i^ 



23 

WATKIP^S QXEN. 

SYLVAN GORGE, 

which was until recently inaccessible, and is one of the 
wildest, most beautiful and interesting portions of the 
Glen. There are two paths, and to enjoy it fully one should 
go by one and return by the other. Continuing, we take the 
Sylvan Path, turning abruptly to the left above the Art Gal- 
lery, and follow the path windingdovvn through the stately 
forest. We pause on Forest Cliff to enjoy the magnificent 
view down The Vista. From beneath the green sylvan 
arches we look down into the depths, with picturesque 
tree-clad cliffs on either hand. To the left, perched on a 
jutting crag, more than a hundred feet above the bed of 
the stream, we catch a glimpse of Hope's Art Gallery, and 
rustic arbor, mid their emerald surroundings; while beyond 
the tasteful structures the iron bridge spans the chasm, 
and the view finally dies away in the shadows of Whirl- 
wind Gorge. Turning, we pursue our course, pausing oft 
to admire the mossy slopes that crown the chasm, and to 
gaze down upon Diamond Fall and all the wild surround- 
ings of forest, rock and stream. 

Our walk through the woods gradually descends until 
we are nearly on a level with the stream; and here, in the 
rocks in all directions, are found the remains of the same 
kind of pools that are now seen in the bed of the stream. 
A word on the formation of these peculiar pools may not 
prove uninteresting to those who are not familiar with 
them. In the spring, when the stream is very high and 
the ice breaking up, large quantities of rock, boulders and 
gravel are carried down by the tremendous power of the 
water; and sometimes these boulders lodge in a natural 
seam in the rock, or in a curve in the bed of the stream, 
and are there whirled and rolled around, until, aided by 
the gravel that collects, they gradually grind out these 
basins or pools in the softer rock beneath. This process, 
going on for years, has worn some of them to an immense 




ENTRANCE TO CATHEDRAL. 



25 

size and depth. In many instances the boulders have been 
forced from their resting-places at the bottom of the pool, 
and carried away; but in many instances, especially in the 
upper glens, they are still to be seen in the basins they 
have carved. The remains of these basins are, in many 
places, to be seen now, where the channel has deepened or 
changed and left them. 

Proceeding on our journey we see a succession of little 
rapids and cascades leaping into Sylvan Gorge, of which 
this is the upper termination, called the 

SYLVAN RAPIDS, 

and they glide and dance very beautifully through their 
irregular rocky channel. At the head of the Sylvan Rapids 
a rustic bridge spans the stream, from which as we cross 
to the south side, we have a delightful bird's-eye view down 
through Sylvan Gorge, with its many windings and myste- 
rious recesses. Below the bridge is the ''Bath Tub," which 
will be readily recognized by its perfect resemblance to 
that necessary article. 

Looking upward we find ourselves in 

GLEN CATHEDRAL, 

and here obtain the best general view of this masterpiece 
of Nature's handiwork. All attempt at description fails, 
and words are inadequate to paint a picture that would do 
this subject justice, or convey to the mind an idea of its 
grandeur. The Cathedral is an immense oblong amphi- 
theatre, nearly an eighth of a mile in length. Here the 
Glen is wider than at any other point; the rocky walls 
tower to a great height — over three hundred feet — and are 
richly tapestried with mosses and clinging vines, and 
crowned with lofty pines and other evergreen trees. The 
floor is composed of a smooth and even surface of rock; the 
vaulted arch of the sky forms the dome. In the upper 
end the 



26 



ysTAfsmEmm m%mm, 




THE CATHEDRAL. 



it^ 



%^ 



27 
CENTRAL CASCADE 

forms the Choir, and, as it dashes from rock to rock, sings 
continual hymns of praise to the Infinite Power that 
created this mighty temple. Alluding to the peculiar 
feelings inspired by this stupendous work of Nature, a 
friend who once visited it, said : "I have often reflected 
upon the insignificance of man, but never so fully real- 
ized what a mere atom I was in this incomprehensible uni- 
verse, as when standing in this vast Cathedral and looking 
up its towering walls." 

Recrossing the stream we continue along the north bank, 
in the shade of immensely tall forest trees; pausing mid- 
way for another look at the amber waters that spread over 
the level floor, and at Pulpit Rock that rears its stately 
head above its fellows. 

Situated near the upper end of the Cathedral is a large 
and beautiful pool, called the 

BAPTISMAL FONT. 

This is one of the most remarkable of these natural 
basins, singular for its regularity and the surpassing beauty 
of its form, and we are astonished, more than ever before, 
by the wonderful clearness and purity of the water, which, 
as the sun strikes into it, sparkles until it is fairly radiant. 
The smallest objects on the bottom are clearly discernible 
in pools where the water is ten or fifteen feet deep, while 
its refracting and distorting powers are very great. We 
now ascend the 

GRAND STAIRCASE, 

which is broken by a platform, about one hundred and 
seventy feet in height. Passing along on the cliff a few 
rods, we come to a short flight of stairs leading down 
to the 

VERANDA, 

descending which we obtain one of the finest views of the 



28 

Central Cascade at our feet. This fall of about sixty feet, 
is very beautiful, angular and irregular, yet symmetrical; 
while far above, projecting through the trees, is seen Pulpit 
Rock. Re-ascending we find ourselves in the 

GLEN OF THE POOLS, 

so named from the number of rock basins it contains. 
Pursuing the path on the north bank a short distance to a 
point directly over the Central Cascade, and looking back 
down through Glen Cathedral, we have the 

poet's dream, 

a truly magnificent scene. We come now to another rustic 
bridge, below which is the Mermaid's Pool, and looking up 
we have what has been appropriately termed, the 

MATCHLESS SCENE, 

which view seems to combine within itself all the manifold 
beauties of the Glen. Broken and angular in its forma- 
tion, rock and water, cascades and deep pools, winding 
channels and seething rapids, foliage and sky, all combine 
in a chaotic intermingling, yet form a harmonious and 
picturesque whole. As we proceed we are never tired of 
admiring the extreme beauty of the water; and the sun- 
light shimmering down through the foliage strikes into the 
pools, waking their crystal depths into life; while new 
phases of magical beauty surprise us at every step, like the 
ever-varying changes in a kaleidoscope. 

Leaving this point we follow the path on the south bank, 
through this section of the Qlen, employing our time in 
examining the curious structure of the pools, one of which 
especially will be noticed, called the Horse Shoe. 

We now come to a little staircase on the south bank, by 
which we ascend to a more elevated path; but before we 
do, we pass by it and a little further up the Glen to obtain 
a fine view of the 



29 

TRIPLE CASCADE AND RAINBOW FALLS. 

The Triple Cascade is deemed by many to be the finest in 
the Glen. As its name indicates, it is composed of three 
portions, one above another, each different in form from 
the others, and forming a beautiful combination. Just 
below the Triple Cascade on the south side, a little brook 
leaps over the brow of a great cliff nearly four hundred 
feet high down into the Glen, trickling over the irregular 
surface of the rock until it reaches a point twenty-eight 
feet above the foot-path, where it falls over a projecting 
shelf, the edge of which is curved outward in a crescent 
form. The water does not descend in a smooth sheet, but 
in a myriad of tiny threads and drops, forming a sparkling 
crystal veil, behind which our course leads. This novel 
cascade is known as Rainbow Falls. Beyond and above 
the Triple Cascade, spanning a narrow pass in the gorge, 
we see the Platform Staircase, while far above our heads 
on the north bank, Castle Cliff is seen through the trees. 
This section of the Glen of the Pools is called the Giant's 
Gorge. We return to the little staircase before mentioned, 
and ascend to the elevated pathway, taking in new views 
of the Triple Cascade at every step, and come to the 

RAINBOW FALL, 

behind which we pass. The space between the fall and 
the cliff is narrow, but sufficiently wide to allow free pas- 
sage. While staPiding behind the fall and looking out 
through the misty curtain, the novelty of the position and 
the peculiar brilliancy that the radiant drops of falling 
water impart to everything viewed through them, fill us 
with wonder, and is beautiful beyond description. In 
the afternoon, from June to September, when fair weather 
prevails, the rays of the sun fall into the gorge, and 
the enraptured visitor, in looking through the veil, beholds 
two most beautiful rainbows, a primary and secondary ; a 
sight that, once enjoyed, can never be forgotten. 




RAINBOW FALL AND TRIPLE CASCADE. 



31 

We take a backward glance at Glen of the Pools and 
Matchless Scene, pass the Triple Cascade, and under over- 
hanging rocks come to a staircase leading to an inclined 
platform, called 

PLATFORM STAIRCASE. 

Here are seats which we find very welcome after our.climb, 
and where we obtain a fine retrospective view of the Glen 
of the Pools with its ragged gorges, and a more defined 
view of the Rainbow Fall, showing its course before taking 
its final leap, while below us lies Diana's Bath, a clear, cir- 
cular pool, nearly twenty feet deep. We are now to pass 
through 

SHADOW GORGE, 

> 

in which portion of the Glen some of the most severe 
labor was performed, but its final accomplishment was a 
high compliment to the engineering skill of those who had 
it in charge. We leave the platform, ascend to and follow 
the path along the south cliff, where it is narrow and cut 
in the solid, rocky face of the cliff. It winds in and out, 
following the curves of the gorge, high above the water. 
We now see how appropriately this has been named the 
Shadow Gorge. The trees on the cliffs above are very high, 
and in many places almost meet overhead, and as the light 
strikes down through them their shadows are reproduced 
in the pools below, forming a combination of beautiful 
lights and shadows that surpass description. Here the 
stream seems a succession of basins connected by rapids 
and little falls, while ahead of us is another rustic bridge 
spanning the stream, and a little beyond it is the 

EMERALD POOL, 

one of the most beautiful of the basins; very regular in 
form, bottom covered with gravel, and water of great 
purity and brilliance. Looking up the Glen, our journey 
seems about to come to a sudden termination, shut off by 
a wall as regular as if composed of solid masonry, but as 



we cross the bridge and follow the pathway, we see on 
approaching that the Glen makes a sudden turn to the 
right, around this 

FROWNING CLIFF 

that appeared to obstruct our further progress. At this 
place the seams in the rock intersect each other at right 
angles, giving to the whole the effect of masonry. The 
corner formed by this cliff on the south side, conveys the 
idea of the work of human hands, and is named the 

PILLAR OF BEAUTY. 

Directly at the foot of this cliff is another large and very 
deep pool, the water in which is from twelve to fifteen feet 
deep, and as clear as crystal; and as it passes under the 
sharp angle of the cliff, it mirrors in its pellucid depths an 
inverted picture of the frowning rocks and graceful foliage 
above. The mosses and ferns are here very fine. These 
cliffs mark the entrance to the section called 

GLEN ARCADIA, 

and it well deserves the name, for a more perfect Elysium 
cannot be imagined. The scene before us has been called 

THE artist's dream, 

where all the beauties of the other Glens, silver cascades 
and crystal pools, light and shadow, sharp angles and 
graceful curves, foliage, sky and rock, mingle and produce 
a picture that more resembles an ecstatic dream than any- 
thing that can elsewhere be found. The rocks do not here 
tower to such immense height, nor is the scenery so sublime 
as in some of the sections of the glens through which we 
have passed, but what is lost in grandeur is more than 
atoned for in the wild beauty of the scene. 

Our path now lies along the north cliff, on the rocky 
shelf some distance above the stream, where the water 
trickles from above, and runs down over the rocks in little 
streams. The gorge below us is known as the 



ywMTmtmm m%m: 




ARTIST'S DREAM. 



34 

NARROW PASS, 

and is full of interest, as the walls tower high on either 
side, and approach near together. After rounding another 
sharp curve, we are once more obliged to cross the stream 
by means of a bridge, and proceed along the south side, 
through the Narrow Pass, under shelving rocks that 
extend far out over our heads. Passing around an angle, 
we come in sight of 

PLUTO FALL, 

on which the rays of the sun never shine. It appears like 
a subterranean gallery, for the air is damp and cold, and 
the dashing and rumbling of the Fall, as it echoes through 
the pass, adds to the gloomy sublimity of the spot. As we 
draw near we ascend a short staircase crossing over the 
fall where we obtain a fine view of it, which is of singular 
beauty, and essentially different in form from any we have 
yet seen, as it falls into a dark, deep basin, and extends 
about thirty feet under the rock on the edge of the stream. 
We climb around the falls, and stop to take a farewell look 
at the Narrow Pass, or, as it is called when viewed from 
this point backward, the Spiral Gorge. 

Our course now lies along the south side to the head of 
Glen Arcadia, and the way is clear, though "wondrous 
crooked," before us. The rapids here are the most beauti- 
ful in all the Glen. The channel is tortuous, and, as in the 
Glen of the Pools, consists of a succession of curiously- 
carved basins connected by narrow rapids and cascades. 
The largest of these basins is called the 

POOL OF THE NYMPHS. 

Passing under the shelving rocks, we finally arrive at the 
head of the section, formed by the Arcadian Fall. This is 
a beautiful cascade, falling into a kind of natural grotto; 
and at its foot is a beautiful basin. Near the head of this 
section a staircase leads to the north cliff, and a few rods of 



35 




THE NARROW PASS. 



36 

pathway brings us to another rustic bridge, thrown across 
the chasm directly above or over Arcadian Fall, for the 
purpose of giving visitors a fine rear view of Glen Arcadia, 
which viewed from this romantic spot is called 

ELFIN GORGE, 

and is a scene of rare and enchanting beauty. This bridge 
is the dividing line between Glen Arcadia and 

GLEN FACILITY, 

the latter so called because of the comparative ease with 
which it may be explored, except in times of high water. 
The most important of the great natural beauties of the 
Glen terminate here, but many visitors go half a mile 
beyond, to see the magnificent new iron bridge of the 
Syracuse, Geneva & Corning Railway Co., which spans the 
Glen at a height of 165 feet above the water, and well 
worthy a visit. We have passed through two and a-half 
miles; are six hundred feet above our starting point, and 
being satisfied with an endless change and variety of scenery, 
enter 

GLEN HORICON, 

half a mile above Elfin Gorge, beyond the railroad bridge 
above mentioned, which consists of a large basin or amphi- 
theatre, containing some twelve or fifteen acres with steep 
wooded banks, several hundred feet high, broken into 
curves and promontories, the lower level of which is a 
barren "pathway of the floods," and the whole a picture 
of commingled grandeur and solitude, terminating in a 
winding, rocky gorge, called 

GLEN ELYSIUM, 

because of its natural beauties of water, lawn and grove, 
and its susceptibility of being made one of the most 
attractive and delightful pleasure grounds imaginable. It 
is a vast area, nearly a half mile long, and one-fourth of a 




PLUTU FALL. 



38 

mile wide, containing within its lofty, sloping banks, nearly 
fifty acres, filled with cozy rural retreats, carpeted with 
grasses and mosses, overlooked by giant trees, and graced 
and adorned with a wondrous variety of foliage. 

After leaving Glen Elysium, we come to Omega Fall — 
the last^and beyond this Fall, which is one of the most 
complicated and beautiful in the series, 

GLEN OMEGA 

stretches westward for half a mile or more, till it opens out 
in the "hill country" like a great fan; and the Glen comes 
to an end more than three miles from its beginning at the 
entrance of Glen Alpha. 

After a quiet rest, we start on our return, taking it leisurely, 
and stopping frequently to admire the numberless beauties 
that escaped us on our ascent. And, we may here say, that 
the Glen is so extensive, and the beauties so varied that 
one may make many visits, and yet each time find new 
features that he had not hitherto observed. Sometimes a 
difference of a few feet in a position will materially alter 
the outline of a picture. It is frequently the case that the 
visitor more fully realizes and appreciates the extent, sub- 
limity and grandeur of the Glen, after he has once or twice 
accomplished its ascent. Here we stop a few minutes to 
look with wonder down into the grand old Cathedral, 
and finally after descending the staircase, passing through 
the Cathedral, and retracing the winding path through the 
woods, we find ourselves again at the Swiss Chalet. It is 
a most welcome spot, and its refreshments are very accept- 
able. Here can be obtained the best selection of Stereo- 
scopic Views, by eminent artists, of Watkins and Havana 
Glens, all of which are faithful copies of the most striking 
points of interest, and enable the tourist, on returning 
home, to keep in vivid remembrance the many pleasant 
associations connected with his visit. At the Glen Mountain 
House Bazaar, visitors can find many a little souvenir to 



39 



-w^irmiMS mE.mm. 



take with them to the eager, expecting ones at home, and we 
advise all to avail themselves of the opportunity of securing 
some memento of Watkins Glen. Crossing to the south 
side by the Iron Suspension Bridge, we come to the Glen 
Mountain House again. 

We notice near the end of the bridge, on that side, a 
sign-board which reads 

"TO THE SUMMIT." 

Our wonder is excited, and as we do not wish to miss any 
of the beautiful surroundings of this wonderful place, 
thitherward we bend our steps; on we go by a winding 
and continually ascending path, passing through a beau- 
tiful wood, till we arrive at 

THE SUMMIT, 

which well deserves the name, as it is the highest point in 

the vicinity, 
and commands 
a fine view of 
the lake for 
nearly thirty 
miles. Another 
path brings us 
back by a 
nearer route to 
the House, 
ready to resume 
our homeward 
journey, but not 
by the path we 
came; because 
another is 
recomme nded 
as promising 
fresh beauties. 
Instead of fol- 




40 

lowing the path that leads to the Long Staircase, from 
the Swiss Cottage we take one that bears to the left, along 
the slope of the hill, called Cliff Avenue, or one bearing 
to the north, directly behind the Swiss Cottage, called 
"To the Observatory." These paths lead us through 
beautiful groves, and afford us occasional glimpses into 
the dizzy depths of Glen Alpha. The roar of the cascades, 
and cool vapors arising from them, reach us even at this 
height. 

Instead of following the road that leads down into the 
village, we choose a path that enables us to climb still fur- 
ther up the summit of 

TABLE MOUNTAIN, 

as it is called. We sit down to rest beneath the stunted 
evergreens that grow upon the brow of the mountain, at 
the little "Observatory Building," and gaze with mingled 
delight and amazement at the scene before us. The valley 
for miles lies spread out like a map at our feet, forming a 
perfect picture. It is certainly one of the most magnificent 
and soul-entrancing scenes that we ever beheld, and leaves 
a lasting impression on every beholder. Directly below us 
lies the village of Watkins, with its shaded avenues, its 
beautiful churches, public buildings, etc. At the wharf lie 
several steamers and a variety of small craft, for Seneca 
Lake has quite an extensive and increasing commerce. 

We regret very much to leave our elevated position on 
Table Mountain and descend to the lower world, but after 
a refreshing rest from our delightful rambles, and review- 
ing the truly splendid panoramic scene below us, and 
gaining new strength from the pure breezes that sweep the 
lake, we return to our comfortable quarters at the Glen 
Mountain House, to rest, and write to our friends to come 
and do likewise. 

There are a number of delightful drives in the neighbor- 
hood of Watkins that offer tempting inducements. One, 



42 

especially, we cannot refrain from mentioning. It is the 
road leading from Watkins to Havana, and still further up 
the valley. It lies along the level plain on the west side of 
the valley, under precipitous hills and frowning cliffs on 
the one side, and the beautiful valley, with its border of 
hills, on the other. The road is hard and smooth, and 
margined with trees and shrubbery. At one point, near 
Havana, a little brook falls about one hundred feet over 
the edge of the cliff, called Aunt Sarah's Fall (after an old 
Indian woman who formerly lived there), making a very 
fine cascade. There is a little niche in the face of the rock, 
near the verge of the fall, in which, an ancient legend says, 
great treasures were hidden. This whole district, lying 
around the lake, was once the hunting-grounds of the 
Seneca Indians. In accordance with the manifest destiny 
of the race to which they belonged, they have all passed 
away, leaving naught behind them save their mouldering 
bones (many of which, with their rude implements of war, 
clubs, tomahawks, scalping-knives, beads, ancient French 
coins, Jesuitical crosses, little brass camp-kettles, arrow- 
heads, etc., are annually exhumed on both sides of the 
Glen Creek, a short distance east of the entrance to the am- 
phitheatre), and their strange and poetic legends, preserved 
and handed down to the present. Almost every spot has 
some historical interest, and with very many of the localities 
are associated some of those wild imaginative tales of the 
wars, loves or wrongs of that race which is fast becoming 
extinct. These legends clothe their scenes with a deep 
interest. 

Continuing about one and a half miles beyond the pretty 
little village of Havana, eastward is Havana Glen, not so 
extensive as Watkins, but very interesting and well deserv- 
ing a visit, as it possesses many curious and remarkable 
attractions. Omnibusses, and easy-riding carriages, with 
careful and intelligent drivers, can always be obtained at 
the Glen Mountain House, at rates so reasonable as to in- 



43 



duce all who have the time to avail themselves of the 
opportunity to see it. 

And we would respectfully, but urgently, recommend a 
trip over Seneca Lake, from Watkins to Geneva and return 
in one of the S. L. S. Navigation Co.'s palatial steamers. 
Six trips over the lake daily (three times each way), 
enables parties to leave morning, noon, and evening. 
The officers are very polite, spare no pains to interest 
their passengers, make them comfortable, and render their 
voyage pleasant. 

The scenery along the shores of this beautiful body of 
water vies with any found in this country. To the north, 
the lake stretches away as far as the eye can reach, with 
the sky and clouds mirrored upon its bright blue surface; 
the hills sweep back from the lake in graceful undulations, 
the picturesque little hamlets and villages clinging to their 
sides, and nestling in the valleys; while back from the 
water still further, miles of well-tilled farms meet the view; 
and on the rising slopes many flourishing vineyards appear, 
from the product of which large quantities of excellent 
wine, in great variety, is manufactured and sold annually. 







44 



jlOl'ieE^ pi^OJVE I'jlE PI^E^^. 







1;N ROUTE the professor lectured 

on the botany of the Glen, declaring 

that, except in an artificial conserva- 

^- --<^ tory, he had never seen so great a 

^^?S^^ variety in one locality. Many of the 

plants found here are exotic in this region 

outside ; and the growth embraces a climatic 

range from Labrador to the Carolinas. 

" But as we crossed a narrow foot-bridge, all 
eyes were lifted upward, while the handfuls of 
innocent fresh-gathered flowers were cast care- 
lessly into the rushing current of forgetfulness. We stood 
at the entrance of the Cathedral; and from the considera- 
tion of microcosmic infinity, our minds were suddenly 
turned to a scene of infinite grandeur. 

" This is, by common consent, the most striking view in 
the Glen; and it is certainly very impressive and emotional, 
with its towering cliffs, its broad flag-stone flooring, its 
transparent, glassy pools, reflecting the blue heavens and 
the overhanging sunlit trees; its flashing water-fall, like 
a high altar, adorning its upper extremity; its shelving 
strata, supported by gigantic caryatides, weird mimicry of 
the sculptor's art. 

" But why waste words ? The artist has already pointed 
his crayons, selected his point of view, and assumed the 
task of description. 

"He says the view is grand, open, charming; but not so 
astounding and impressive nor so picturesque as some 
others. But this is not the age for new dogmas, even in 



45 

matters of taste; and we magnanimously invite each visitor 
to see for himself, and enjoy his own opinions. 

" This picture finished, we move on, crossing more 
streams and climbing more stairways. From this bridge, 
just at the head of the Cathedral Fall, we may pause and 
look back and have one of the most characteristic views of 
water-carved rocks and boiling waters in the Glen. 

" The main stream descends in a perspective of sparkling 
cascades, uniting a succession of circular pools in deep 
stone basins or wells, grooved and polished like finely- 
wrought marble. On either side the cliffs rise to a tower- 
ing height, showing rock entablatures, with architrave, 
frieze, and cornice, as clean cut and well proportioned as 
those of a Grecian temple. Over these come pouring 
adventurous streamlets from the upper world, like a 
shower of light aqueous meteors darting downward into 
the gloom. 

" At every turn there is material for a wonderful picture, 
and when our time is limited it is difficult to make a selec- 
tion. Still forward, as we wind around a shelving path 
that gives a dry passage under the water-fall on the left. 
Beyond there is still a mile or more to be explored, full of 
curious and pretty things; but we have climbed so many» 
ladders, steps, and stairways, that we must be approaching 
the level of the upper world; indeed, the diminished height 
of the cliffs indicates this sufficiently." — Extract from Porte 
Crayon's Illustrated Article in Harper s Monthly for June, 187 1. 

" I am not going to attempt a minute description of this 
really wonderful natural curiosity, suddenly become so 
famous. Scores of tourists are doing it. Porte Crayon 
has made it his own. And, after all, it is indescribable, 
' unpaintable.' The word ' Glen,' gives but a faint idea of 
the gorge. It is a marvelous rift in the mountain, which 
it seems must have been made by some stupendous earth- 
quake-shock. The Glen, with its dashing, flashing, cascad- 



46 

ing stream, reminds me of several famous gorges and 
waterfalls. It suggests Vaucluse in the pellucid clearness 
and sparkle of the water. But, instead of the dreary, 
blasted heights above Petrarch's ' Fountain,' we have varie- 
gated, mossy, ferny rocks, the most lush and lovely foliage 
and wild flowers in profusion. It faintly suggests the somber, 
magnificent Pass of the Finstermunz, in the Tyrol, but is in- 
finitely brighter and more varied. It suggests Trenton Falls, 
but is wilder and deeper. Most of all it suggests Bash-bish, 
in old Berkshire — it is indeed very like it, but is yet more 
picturesque and perilous. It is not properly a glen, but a 
prodigious succession, a full assortment and variety of 
glens. If one does not satisfy you, another must ; though 
you be the most rapacious devourer of the sublime and 
beautiful, ' here's richness ' for you. Through the boldest 
Yankee enterprise, these wild grandeurs and beauties, 
for centuries barred and buried from the world, have been 
thrown open to our gaze, and it is no wonder that the tides 
of travel are setting toward it from all directions, that hun- 
dreds daily climb its dizzy stairways, pick their way along 
its narrow ledges, dodge under its little side cascades, 
watch for rainbows beside its water-falls, gaze down into 
its profound, mysterious pools, and speculate on its wonder- 
ful formation. We go leagues out of the way, in foreign 
travel, to see things far less worth seeing, like Tivoli and 
Velino, Lodore, Glencoe, the Killarney cascades, the Vale 
of Avoca, the Dargle, and the Devil's Glen of Wicklow. 
The ' Pools' are a great curiosity in themselves. They are 
smooth, round, regular excavations, gigantic bowls, and 
are always brimming with crystal clear water. So near to 
these pools does the narrow path lead in some places, that a 
single false step would inevitably cost you a cold plunge. 

" The Glen is one of Nature's reservoirs of eternal cool- 
ness. In its shadowy recesses, beside its emerald waters, 
you forget even the fierce heats of July and August, hun- 
dreds of feet above you. 



47 

" But, I am told it is seen in its utmost beauty in October, 
when the wild gorge with its wonderful variety of delicate 
foliage is brimmed with the most gorgeous colors, depth 
on depth of splendor." — Extract from Grace Greeinvood's 
Article in ike Ne%v York Tribune, 1870. 

"At every bend within its rock-bound walls, new and 
varied scenery greets the eye, each view unsurpassed of its 
kind, yet no two alike. Cascade after cascade, set like 
gems amid the gray old rocks, are continually telling you 
welcome, if your imagination can interpret the language 
of 'laughing waters.' 

" Far above these cascades and rapids, the rock walls 
tower to the height of from one to three hundred feet, 
while in many places the branches of the trees above them 
intermingle across the chasm, through which the autumn 
sunlight finds its way, filling the rock-bound passages with 
fantastic shadows." — Elmira Advertiser. 

"Watkins has a rare natural attraction in the wood- 
ed glen of a stream which here falls some four hun- 
dred feet in less than a mile (and nearly double that 
number in two) from the higher level on the west, to the 
valley of the lake. This fall is made by a succession of 
leaps or cascades, into pools or basins of varying depth and 
magnitude, separated by stretches of swift bright water, 
and overhung by the dark evergreens which mainly com- 
pose the all-embracing forest, which the sun irradiates 
but few hours per day. We judge this to be the finest 
succession of cataracts in our State. The cool seclusion of 
the Glen, with the marvels and beauties it reveals, will be 
long enshrined in the heart of the visitor." — N. Y. Tribune. 

"Its succession of high bluff walls, with its 'towering 
cliffs, and beetling crags,' its clear and crystalline pools, 
varying in depth, size and form, its many silvery cascades 
and narrow channels through the solid rock, its labyrinthine 



passages, shadowy grottoes and miniature caves, its woody 
margins, and ever-changing floral charms, have given us 
one of the most varied, wild, weird, and delightful sights 
of our lives. We advise all lovers of the beautiful and 
romantic in natural scenery, to visit Watkins Glen, believ- 
ing that they will derive the same pleasure from an ac- 
quaintance with its wonderful scenic attractions that we 
have this day enjoyed." — Watkins Democrat. 

"The Glen Mountain House is about three hundred feet 
in altitude above the entrance to the Glen, and about one- 
quarter of the way up to the highest point, and the view 
of the scenery from this house is most magnificent and 
grand. To appreciate the Glen one must see and pass 
through all its windings, climb its crags, and go from 
rock to rock; otherwise description seems commonplace 
and tame. 

" This remarkable wonder of nature has now become so 
widely known, and so highly appreciated, that it con- 
fessedly ranks among the first-class attractions of the 
country. The number of people visiting it during this 
season is literally immense. They come from all parts of 
the nation, though the States most largely represented 
are New York, Pennsylvania and Maryland. Among the 
names on the register may be found almost daily those of 
men of well-known prominence in the country." — Elmira 
Advertiser. 










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